Ulverston
has been a delightful market town since AD 1280, but it is essentially
a Georgian town. It is surrounded by beautiful countryside and villages
with many historical connections.
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The Market Place has been the heart of the town for centuries,
where sheep and cattle used to be traded alongside eggs, fish
and vegetables and criminals were punished. The pharmacy was
a private residence until around 1830, when shop windows were
fitted. The arched building dates from 1736; the arches were
open, enabling a covered market to be held. Laurel and Hardy
look out on County Square and the bank built in 1902, in Jacobean
style, for the Bank of Liverpool (hence the Liver bird relief
on the wall). Gillam's Teashop is a Georgian building with
a Dickensian feel - organic teas and splendid food. The John
Barrow Monument stands above the town on Hoad Hill, seen here
from the Bronze Age hill fort at Skelmore Heads. |
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This
is one of many
typical Georgian buildings on Soutergate, Fountain Street
and King Street. It formerly housed the Ulverston Savings
Bank, leading to its current name of the Chippy Bank. Upper
Brook Street, on the left, was in Georgian times the commercial
centre of Ulverston, with several lawyers offices and four
pubs. An open brook flowed down the middle of the street. |
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The
Savings Bank moved to Market Street in 1838. This fine building
(Pevsner described it as Ulverston's best) was built in Italinate
style using limestone from nearby Birkrigg Common. The clock
tower was added in 1845. Unfortunately, the streets here were
often ankle deep in red mud, as iron-ore carts passed through
regularly en route to the Canal and the iron furnace at Newland
- ladies complained they could not get to Church without getting
their petticoats filthy. |
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Between 1880 and 1895 New Market Street was created as the
latest in Victorian shopping malls, following new prosperity
from iron ore mining. Many of the buildings are characteristic
of the "Queen Anne" style that was popularised at
the time by London archtects like Norman Shaw. Features of
this style evident in the street are Dutch gables, red and
white brick, and terracotta patterned tiles used as decoration. |
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The
Buddhist's Temple at Conishead Priory was the latest addition
to Ulverston's fine architecture in 1997. The Priory is steeped
in history and well worth a visit - there's even a mysterious
tunnel under the road if you want a scary experience. |
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Parts
of the Parish Church are the oldest of any building in Ulverston.
The porch is a splendid example of Norman architecture from
AD1111. The tower was rebuilt in the 15th Century after it
fell down in a tempest. The refurbished interior is modern
in function while retaining its historical associations. The
church is open most mornings. |
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The
old mill stands beside the Town beck that now flows under
the road. This building dates from around 1700 but a mill
has stood here for centuries before that. The water wheel
is still in place within the restaurant. |
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The
Stage and Royal Mail coaches once thundered down Market Street,
pulled by a team of four horses, intent on crossing the sands
to Lancaster before the next tide. Travellers in the early
1800's, mostly seated outside and enduring everything the
weather could throw at them, could not possibly have imagined
the street being paved with setts, let alone the luxury of
today's vehicles. |
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Since
1850 the iconic feature of Ulverston has been the tower erected
above the town on Hoad Hill to commemorate the life of Sir
John Barrow. As Britain's first permanent civil servant, he
was responsible for getting a neglected Navy into shape to
enable Nelson to win the Battle of Trafalgar. He founded the
Royal Geographic Society and, over 30 years, organised numerous
Government sponsored expeditions around the world. The last
of these was the ill-fated and much documented Franklin Expedition
to the Arctic, in which all 129 crew perished as a result
of lead poisoning from the tin cans used to hold food supplies. |
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In
2010 Gill Barron painted a 102 foot wall mural in Bolton's
Place. Colonel Bolton was a notorious merchant and slave trader;
he won the last legal duel in Britain, killing an employee
in the process. He was born at the Hare and Hounds pub, which
used to occupy the site now taken by the Bodycare shop, on
the walls of which this fascinating mural can be seen - it
depicts aspects of Sir John Barrow's life. |